INDEX / DIRECTORY / LONGINES / MILITARY

Longines MILITARY

MILITARY AUDIT UPDATED 2026-10-25
Military Score 2.07 /10 D Longines - Complicity Index 334
Military 2.07

Evidence-only forensic audit. Scoring happens downstream - see the main dossier for the composite assessment.

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Target: Longines Parent: Swatch Group Research date: 23 October 2026 Evidence scope: Historical and contemporary defence, military-equipment, logistics and occupied-territory activity.

Direct Defence Contracting & Procurement

Historical Israeli military equipment - 1958 [pre-2020]

Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XI catalogue documents a Longines Chronostop reference 5824, manufactured in 1958, described as made for the Israeli Defense Forces and issued to an Israeli Air Force pilot. The watch bears an Israeli Air Force caseback marking and issue number 540. Phillips identifies Baruch Halachmi as its military recipient and reports that he graduated from fighter-pilot training in 1962.1

The same catalogue describes an accompanying Longines archival extract recording an invoice dated 11 April 1958 to Scharfstein, the company’s agent in Tel Aviv. This identifies a commercial intermediary but does not disclose the original military procurement authority, an Israeli government purchase order, contractual value or total quantity supplied.1

Worn & Wound’s historical study of Israeli military timepieces independently identifies the Longines reference 5824 as an early documented IDF-issued pilot’s watch, describing its 47 mm case, specialised chronograph configuration and military provenance.2

A separate Longines reference 5824, dating to approximately 1950–1951, was offered by Bulang & Sons with an archive extract documenting sale to Knyath, Longines’ Israeli agent, in March 1951. The evidence establishes historical commercial distribution in Israel; the individual specimen’s original military end user is not independently established by that record.3

Current status: These records concern historical transactions. No public evidence identified of an ongoing Longines procurement contract with the Israeli Air Force, IDF or Israeli Ministry of Defence.

Defence procurement directories

The Israeli Ministry of Defence identifies SIBAT as its International Defense Cooperation Directorate, operating government-to-government, business-to-government and business-to-business defence cooperation channels. The reviewed institutional material does not identify Longines as a named participating contractor.4

The Ministry’s Defence Inventory Unit describes procurement and sales arrangements concerning surplus military platforms, equipment and spare parts. Its published information does not identify Longines watches or Longines-related companies as participants.5

Current IMOD, IDF, Israeli Prison Service and Border Police contracts: no public evidence identified.

Contemporary defence exhibition listings: no public evidence identified.

Current defence cooperation announcements, tenders or memoranda: no public evidence identified.

Dual-Use Products & Tactical Variants

Historical military-specification equipment - 1958 [pre-2020]

The Longines Chronostop reference 5824 documented by Phillips has features associated with aviation use, including a large high-visibility dial, oversized winding crown, rotating timing bezel and manually operated chronograph. The catalogue specifically associates the referenced specimen with Israeli Air Force issue.1

Worn & Wound identifies the watch’s calibre 12.68Z and describes its unusual timing arrangement in the context of Israeli military aviation watches.2

Modern military-themed civilian models - 2016 onward

On 16 May 2016, Longines announced the Heritage Military COSD, explicitly describing it as a reissue inspired by a watch originally created for British paratroopers in the 1940s. Its military styling includes a NATO strap and broad-arrow design references.6

Watches of Switzerland markets the Longines Heritage Military reference L28194932 as a contemporary 38.5 mm watch with an L888 movement, based on historical British Royal Air Force designs. The published specifications concern a commercial retail product.7

Bucherer similarly describes the Heritage Military collection as contemporary wristwatches based on historical military designs, using modern movements and materials for civilian watchmaking applications.8

No public evidence identified that these contemporary Heritage Military products are manufactured under Israeli military specifications, supplied through Israeli defence procurement, or modified under an Israeli military contract.

Military-purpose versus civilian products

The 1958 Israeli Air Force specimen has documented military provenance, while contemporary Heritage Military products are publicly marketed through civilian luxury-watch retailers.1, 7

Israeli military-specific tactical variants: no public evidence identified.

Modern Israeli military end-user certificates: no public evidence identified.

Israeli military export licences or regulatory reviews: no public evidence identified.

Contemporary software or AI systems designed to produce targeting decisions or weapons effects: no public evidence identified.

Heavy Machinery, Construction & Infrastructure

Corporate product and distribution context

Roltime’s Israeli service and distribution materials identify Longines among its represented watch brands and describe consumer watch servicing and repairs. The disclosed activities concern watches and related retail services.9

Longines’ authorised retailer directory identifies COL TIME on Yermiyahu Street in Tel Aviv as a watch sales and servicing location.10

Heavy equipment used in occupied territories: no public evidence identified.

Construction machinery supplied directly or through distributors: no public evidence identified.

Demolition equipment associated with settlements, checkpoints or military infrastructure: no public evidence identified.

Construction or engineering contracts involving military bases, prisons, checkpoints or the separation barrier: no public evidence identified.

Settlement-related retail and distribution

Longines lists Gold Time on King George Street in Jerusalem as an authorised watch retailer.11

Longines separately lists Finegold at Mamilla Mall, Jerusalem, as a watch retailer and servicing location.12

These published addresses establish civilian commercial retail locations in Jerusalem. The reviewed listings do not identify either business as operating in occupied East Jerusalem or supplying Israeli military installations.11, 12

Verified Longines operations in West Bank settlements, occupied East Jerusalem or the occupied Golan Heights: no public evidence identified.

Verified settlement infrastructure contracts: no public evidence identified.

Supply Chain Integration with Defence Primes

Corporate group attribution

Swatch Group’s published governance materials identify Nayla Hayek as chair of its board and Matthias Breschan as Longines CEO during 2020–2025. The group’s governance structure distinguishes board oversight from executive operational management.13

Independent reporting dated 2 June 2025 identifies Patrick Aoun as the incoming Longines CEO, replacing Matthias Breschan, and identifies Longines as a Swatch Group watch brand.14

Swatch Group’s Supplier Code of Conduct establishes group-wide commitments concerning ethical standards, human rights and responsible supplier conduct, including supplier compliance assessments.15

Swatch Group’s published 2025 annual report provides financial statements and corporate governance disclosures for Longines’ parent.16

Israeli civilian commercial intermediaries

Roltime identifies Longines within its brand portfolio and describes watch servicing as part of its operations.9

Impress, an Israeli watch and jewellery retailer, identifies Roltime as the official Israeli importer for Longines and describes local warranty and repair arrangements. Its Longines PrimaLuna product page documents ordinary consumer retail activity.17

Component supply to Elbit Systems: no public evidence identified.

Component supply to Israel Aerospace Industries: no public evidence identified.

Component supply to Rafael Advanced Defense Systems: no public evidence identified.

Component supply to Israeli Military Industries or Elbit Land: no public evidence identified.

Military optical, electronic, propulsion, guidance or communications subassemblies: no public evidence identified.

Joint Israeli defence research, licensed military manufacturing or technology transfer: no public evidence identified.

Military-channel activity of controlling principals

The reviewed Swatch Group governance material identifies Nayla Hayek as board chair and records her responsibilities concerning group businesses and associated corporate entities. The material does not establish any Israeli defence-industry directorship or military procurement activity.13

The June 2025 management-change report identifies Patrick Aoun’s previous regional responsibilities in the Middle East and Asia. Regional commercial management alone does not establish involvement in Israeli defence-sector contracts.14

Verified defence-industry equity transactions, military fundraising or Israeli military-channel activities involving Longines’ controlling principals: no public evidence identified.

Logistical Sustainment & Base Services

Civilian distribution and servicing in Israel

Roltime describes an established watch servicing operation, including repair and after-sales support for its represented brands.9

Longines’ official retail directory identifies Impress Ramat Aviv in Tel Aviv as a consumer watch sales and strap-replacement location.18

These sources establish civilian commercial support services. They do not identify an Israeli military end user or military installation as a contracting customer.9, 18

Israeli military-base maintenance contracts: no public evidence identified.

Military transport, catering, fuel or waste-management services: no public evidence identified.

Israeli military telecommunications or facilities-support contracts: no public evidence identified.

Services to detention facilities or military training sites: no public evidence identified.

Military logistical activities within the West Bank, Golan Heights, East Jerusalem or Negev: no public evidence identified.

Military freight forwarding, port handling or arms-shipment contracts: no public evidence identified.

Reservist-pay or military-leave subsidy arrangements within Longines’ Israeli distribution operations: no public evidence identified.

Munitions, Weapons Systems & Strategic Platforms

Historical military equipment

The Longines reference 5824 described by Phillips was a manually operated aviation timing instrument associated with Israeli Air Force personnel. The documented equipment was a wristwatch, and the source does not describe the watch as a weapon, weapons component or integrated fire-control device.1

Small arms, artillery and armoured vehicles: no public evidence identified.

Uncrewed combat aircraft or military drones: no public evidence identified.

Naval combat platforms: no public evidence identified.

Ammunition, explosives or munitions precursors: no public evidence identified.

Iron Dome, David’s Sling or Arrow missile-defence programmes: no public evidence identified.

Fighter-aircraft systems integration or maintenance: no public evidence identified.

Tank, warship or ballistic-missile components: no public evidence identified.

Guidance electronics, targeting systems, radar, propulsion or warhead components: no public evidence identified.

AI-assisted targeting or purpose-built kinetic military software: no public evidence identified.

Historical commercial export records

Phillips reports that Longines’ archival documentation records the 11 April 1958 invoice for reference 5824 to Scharfstein in Tel Aviv. This establishes a documented historical commercial transaction but does not itself constitute an export licence, Israeli end-user certificate or government procurement record.1

Bulang & Sons separately reports archival documentation of a March 1951 sale to Knyath, Longines’ Israeli agent. Its product description does not identify an export-control authorisation or military purchasing agreement.3

Regulatory context

SIBAT’s published institutional materials describe its role in defence cooperation and Israeli military equipment transactions. Those materials establish the scope of SIBAT’s activities but do not identify a regulatory determination involving Longines.4

SIBAT’s published naval-inventory tender material describes eligibility requirements for Israeli exporters and approved foreign customers. It does not identify Longines as a bidder or contract awardee.19

Modern defence-related export approvals to Israel: no public evidence identified.

Export licence denials, suspensions or revocations involving Longines: no public evidence identified.

Arms embargo investigations or enforcement proceedings involving Longines: no public evidence identified.

Sanctions violations involving Israeli military supply: no public evidence identified.

Court proceedings concerning Longines and Israeli military procurement: no public evidence identified.

OECD National Contact Point complaints concerning Israeli military supply: no public evidence identified.

Continued military procurement after 19 July 2024: no public evidence identified.

Continued military procurement after November 2024: no public evidence identified.

Civil Society Scrutiny & Documented Investigations

Historical military-equipment documentation

Worn & Wound’s December 2020 historical investigation identifies the Longines reference 5824 within its discussion of military-issued Israeli aviation watches.2

Phillips’ auction documentation identifies an Israeli Air Force-issued Longines watch, names the historical commercial intermediary Scharfstein and describes the watch’s connection to an individual fighter pilot.1

The two records document historical military-equipment use. Neither establishes a contemporary Longines defence procurement programme.1, 2

Contemporary corporate activities

Swatch Group’s Supplier Code of Conduct sets out commitments to internationally recognised human rights, responsible sourcing and ethical conduct across group companies and their supply chains.15

Swatch Group announced the publication of its 2025 Sustainability Report alongside its 2025 Annual Report on 18 March 2026.20

NGO investigations specifically documenting a contemporary Longines–Israeli military supply contract: no public evidence identified.

UN or NGO reports specifically documenting Longines defence-sector activity in occupied territories: no public evidence identified.

Organised boycott campaigns specifically alleging current Longines weapons or defence-system supply: no public evidence identified.

Institutional divestment decisions specifically citing Longines military contracts: no public evidence identified.

Shareholder resolutions concerning Longines’ Israeli military procurement: no public evidence identified.

Employee letters concerning Longines’ military supply to Israel: no public evidence identified.

FIDF or Israeli military fundraising by Longines or identified controlling principals: no public evidence identified.

Corporate announcements terminating Israeli military contracts: no public evidence identified.

Public military end-use monitoring commitments specifically concerning Israel: no public evidence identified.

Corporate responses to allegations of contemporary Israeli defence procurement: no public evidence identified.

Footnotes

  1. Phillips, The Geneva Watch Auction XI, Longines reference 5824, Chronostop, 1958, historical military provenance and archival invoice details. https://www.phillips.com/detail/longines/139789 ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4 ↩5 ↩6 ↩7 ↩8

  2. Worn & Wound, “Military Watches of the World: Israel Pt. I,” December 2020, historical Israeli military-issued watches. https://wornandwound.com/military-watches-of-the-world-israel-pt1/ ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4

  3. Bulang & Sons, “Longines Chronostop ref. 5824 with Archive Extract,” historical 1951 Knyath invoice description. https://bulangandsons.co.uk/products/longines-chronostop-ref-5824-with-extract-of-the-archives-w2145 ↩ ↩2

  4. Israel Ministry of Defense, “SIBAT - International Defense Cooperation,” official institutional description, accessed October 2026. https://mod.gov.il/en/departments/sibat-international-defense-cooperation ↩ ↩2

  5. Israel Ministry of Defense, “Defense Inventory Unit,” institutional remit and approved procurement channels, accessed October 2026. https://mod.gov.il/en/defense-inventory/defense-inventory-unit ↩

  6. Longines Media Center, “The Longines Heritage Military COSD,” 16 May 2016. https://mediacenter.longines.com/the-longines-heritage-military-cosd/ ↩

  7. Watches of Switzerland, “Longines Military 39mm Mens Watch L28194932,” retail description and specifications, accessed October 2026. https://www.watches-of-switzerland.co.uk/Longines-Military-39mm-Mens-Watch-L28194932/p/17350715 ↩ ↩2

  8. Bucherer, “Longines Heritage Military,” collection description and product specifications, accessed October 2026. https://www.bucherer.com/us/en/watches/longines/the-longines-heritage-military ↩

  9. Roltime Group, “After-Sales Service & Repair,” watch-brand distribution and repair services, accessed October 2026. https://www.roltime.co.il/en/service-and-repairs/ ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4

  10. Longines, “COL TIME - Tel Aviv,” official authorised-store directory, accessed October 2026. https://www.longines.com/en-gb/store/id/col-time-tel-aviv-1645365 ↩

  11. Longines, “Gold Time - Jerusalem,” official authorised-store directory, accessed October 2026. https://www.longines.com/store/id/gold-time-jerusalem-1645354 ↩ ↩2

  12. Longines, “Finegold - Jerusalem,” official authorised-store directory, accessed October 2026. https://www.longines.com/en-us/store/id/finegold-jerusalem-1645358 ↩ ↩2

  13. Swatch Group, “The Boards,” board and extended-management biographies, accessed October 2026. https://acquia-prod.swatchgroup.com/en/swatch-group/boards ↩ ↩2

  14. Hodinkee, “Longines Appoints New CEO As Breschan Steps Down,” 2 June 2025. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/longines-appoints-new-ceo-as-breschan-steps-down ↩ ↩2

  15. The Swatch Group Ltd, “Supplier Code of Conduct,” version 1.4, group-wide ethical standards, human-rights commitments and supplier compliance requirements, hosted by Swatch Group subsidiary ETA SA. https://www.eta.ch/sites/default/files/downloads-items/SG%20Supplier%20COC_EN_V1.4.pdf ↩ ↩2

  16. MarketScreener/Publicnow, “Swatch: Annual Report 2025,” 18 March 2026, republication of The Swatch Group Ltd’s 2025 Annual Report, including corporate governance disclosures and consolidated and parent-company financial statements. https://uk.marketscreener.com/news/swatch-annual-report-2025download-pdf-5-53-mb-ce7e5ed9db80f427 ↩

  17. Impress, “Longines PrimaLuna L81424716,” Israeli retailer’s official-importer and service disclosures, accessed October 2026. https://www.impress-stores.co.il/product/l81424716/ ↩

  18. Longines, “Impress Ramat-Aviv - Tel Aviv,” official authorised-store directory, accessed October 2026. https://www.longines.com/en-us/store/id/impress-ramat-aviv-tel-aviv-1645347 ↩ ↩2

  19. Israel Ministry of Defense/SIBAT, “Excess Naval Inventory,” procurement and bidder-eligibility information, accessed October 2026. https://www.sibat.mod.gov.il/idf/Naval/Pages/default.aspx ↩

  20. MarketScreener/Publicnow, “Swatch: Annual Report and Sustainability Report,” 18 March 2026, republication of Swatch Group’s announcement confirming simultaneous publication of its 2025 Annual Report and 2025 Sustainability Report. https://uk.marketscreener.com/news/swatch-annual-report-and-sustainability-report-ce7e5ed9db8fff21 ↩